Lorraine region | Matthieu Silvestre, the crystal clear cuisine of a crystal chef …

Matthieu Silvestre is back on his land. Where its roots are. A little bit of the Meuse close to the Ardennes and Luxembourg. Rouvrois-sur-Othain, barely 200 inhabitants and “La Marmite”, the restaurant of Gérard and Martine his parents. A few hours break, the time for a hunting trip to return to the sources. Where it all began. Behind the paternal piano: quality, simplicity, rigor.

Dazzling ascent

Last Sunday, he also left Alsace and “Chambard”, the Michelin-starred restaurant of Olivier Nasti, of which he is the second, to participate in a prestigious competition in Moselle. The young man’s meteoric rise, past, sorry, by a final of MOF (Best worker in France) in 2018 , commands respect. And Matthew will only be 28 in a few months. Whatever. Sunday he received the Michel Roth crystal competition trophy. The Moselle chief, MOF and Bocuse d’or in the same year, chaired a jury of exceptional chefs.

2 h 30 of work

A final of six, out of twenty files at the start. With a theme: “Moselle poultry. You also had to use a Moselle wine, ”he says. “In compulsory, there was a timpani potatoes and salsify and a free vegetable garnish. “A dish for eight people in” 2 hours 30 of work with two clerks of the Mondon high school in Metz “.

Matthieu opted for “poultry fillets rolled and steamed then roasted, in a bundle with a poultry juice in the spirit of a roasted chicken juice,” said the chef, who is often referred to as the relief of current stars. “For the timpani, I made candied potatoes with hazelnut butter and a risotto of salsify with hazelnuts and for the garnish, a mille-feuille of forgotten vegetables: parsnip, butternut and rutabaga. “

MOF …

In this competition, the 3e was Kevin Azzara, from the training of Gérard Silvestre. The young man spent four years at La Marmite. A real nursery of excellence than the Rouvrois restaurant! A trophy that makes Matthieu Silvestre and his parents happy. For him, these successes are the road to the next MOF competition in 2022. History of “keeping control. And winning means being in the game “At the end of this year or the beginning of 2021, he will pass the first selections.

Hare à la Royale

Matthieu also won, last October, the title of World Champion of the Hare at the Royale in Sologne. He was the youngest in the competition, which brought together several nationalities and a star chef. If his father uses the traditional method to enhance the recipe, the son adds a touch of modernity on the same basis. The front of the hare for the civet sauce linked to blood and bitter chocolate and the back stuffed with organ meats, truffle … and a heart of foie gras. Thirty-six hours of steam oven cooking and a declination in a trilogy with a pink hare fillet with celeriac juice and a hare quenelle. Slow cooking, fast cooking … and a touch of genius.